Mfangano is a large island in Lake Victoria, in the Kenyan part. It is very rural with most inhabitants either fishing or tending a few goats or cows. The scenery is spectacular, see the walk described below. There is one road of 15 km that has been commissioned at the beginning of 2007. Since there is no car ferry it won't be a very busy road.
From Ukula, an hour or twos walk (with a guide Kshs 300-500 per day) takes you to the high, north facing Itone Hill. It offers spectacular views. Looking from here towards the mainland you'll see the remains of a large volcanic crater of which the closer part has blown away, giving you the view of inside of its surrounding far walls. There is a village inside the crater.
On the mountain is a cave with rock paintings. You will be told by the local people that they are very old. However, nobody knows who painted them or why and what they resemble. For the local communities the site has supernatural powers. They still use the cave for traditional rainmaking ceremonies.
Also on Mfangano are the Odengere Hills, one of Lake Victoria's prehistoric sites. They have depictions of insects, some of them so fine that even the species can be identified.
You can only access Mfangano Island on the large wooden boats with outboard motors. They shuttle local people between Mbita and the surrounding islands. Mfangano is approached anti-clockwise, starting with Sena, Nyakweri and Ukula. The first boat leaves Mbita around 10-11am, and the last no later than 4pm. However you wont be able to return the same day because boats back from Sena only run between 7 am and 9am. For a day trip you need to hire your own boat plus skipper for about KShs 3,000 a day).
The boat trip to Mfangano's capital Sena is about ninety minutes. Sena is the chiefs camp with a small shop and a post office.
Except for the exclusive Mfangano Island Camp, a fishing lodge similar to Rusinga's, the island does not offer accommodation. Though not frequently visited, the local people of Ukunda are somehow familiar with visitors who have been camping. They are more than happy to offer you residential B&L at a fair price. Be aware that Mfangano lacks piped water and electricity. You have to bring anything that you think you might need.